Nestled in the eastern heart of Pittsburgh, Squirrel Hill South stands as a living tapestry of history, cultural heritage, and vibrant community life. Strolling along its tree-lined avenues, visiting its beloved parks, and celebrating its diverse traditions, you quickly realize what generations of residents already know: Squirrel Hill South isn’t just a neighborhood—it’s a piece of Pittsburgh’s soul.
Origins of Squirrel Hill South
Squirrel Hill’s history stretches back well before the city’s industrial boom. The neighborhood gets its whimsical name from the abundance of squirrels spotted by early settlers amongst its wooded rolling hills. Long before bustling Forbes Avenue and Murray Avenue set the rhythm of daily life, this land was home to the Delaware (Lenape) and Shawnee peoples, who cherished these hills for their natural beauty and bounty.
The area began to see more permanent European settlement after 1760, following the end of the French and Indian War. The land was parceled out to veterans and then sold to entrepreneurs and speculators attracted by proximity to the rapidly expanding city. By the early 19th century, farms and country estates dotted what is now Squirrel Hill South, with settlers drawn both by the terrain and the promise of city access via newly cut roads.
How the Neighborhood Got Its Name
The “Squirrel Hill” name has persisted since at least the 1760s, with local lore and diaries referring to “the hills thick with squirrels.” As the neighborhood grew, city neighborhood planners divided Squirrel Hill into North and South for administrative purposes, with Forbes Avenue serving as an informal boundary. Squirrel Hill South, with its quieter residential streets, historic houses, and lush green spaces, grew a unique character of its own.
Key Historical Milestones
- Annexation and Urbanization: Squirrel Hill was annexed in 1868, but significant development didn’t occur until the streetcar expansion at the turn of the 20th century. The arrival of streetcar lines along Murray Avenue and Forbes Avenue spurred an era of building, ushering in stately homes, apartment blocks, and small businesses.
- Jewish Community Flourishing: One of Squirrel Hill’s most enduring legacies is its role as the heart of Pittsburgh’s Jewish community. From the early 20th century onward, waves of Jewish families—many fleeing persecution in Eastern Europe—settled here. Synagogues, Jewish schools, and kosher bakeries became neighborhood landmarks. Today, Squirrel Hill South continues to be a hub of Jewish life, with institutions like Congregation Beth Shalom on Beacon Street and Giant Eagle’s kosher section acting as modern-day anchors.
- Civic and Cultural Centers: The 1920s and 30s brought community centers and civic beauty, such as the historic Squirrel Hill Library branch (on Murray Avenue), which opened in 1927, and the iconic Manor Theatre movie house. Community gardens, tennis courts, and playgrounds began to seed the area, overseen by engaged neighbors determined to keep the neighborhood vibrant.
Notable Landmarks and Buildings
Wander the streets of Squirrel Hill South, and history comes alive through its architecture and public spaces. Some highlights include:
- Murphy’s Mansion at Schenley Park: Formerly the estate of industrialist Col. James O’Hara, the land south of Forbes is now part of the cherished Schenley Park, a green oasis filled with hiking trails, Panther Hollow Lake, and the Pittsburgh Golf Club (founded in 1896). The park’s edge along Squirrel Hill South makes it a beloved backyard for residents.
- Congregation Beth Shalom: This cornerstone of Jewish life, located on Beacon Street, is a magnificent example of Byzantine Revival architecture and stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of immigrant communities.
- The Manor Theatre: Opening its doors in 1922, the art deco Manor remains a cinematic gem, drawing movie-lovers from across the city.
- Chatham University: While its campus is mostly north of Forbes Avenue, the historic institution’s influence radiates throughout Squirrel Hill. Walking along Woodland Road, the leafy college avenue, you sense the academic spirit that’s deeply woven into the neighborhood fabric.
How Squirrel Hill South Has Evolved
The transformation of Squirrel Hill South from farmland and country retreat to a thriving urban neighborhood is a story of resilience, adaptation, and passionate community engagement. From the surge of new residents in the early to mid-20th century, through challenges of economic downturns and demographic shifts, Squirrel Hill South has always met change with an open heart.
- A Haven for Immigrants: In addition to its strong Jewish heritage, other immigrant groups—from Irish to Italian, Russian to Chinese—have found a home here. This layered history is felt in the smells wafting from Murray Avenue’s bakeries, the languages overheard in local parks, and the historic houses of worship gracing the streets.
- The Commercial Blend: The southern corridors of Forbes and Murray are bustling with life—coffee shops in restored row houses, independent bookstores, and restaurants ranging from glatt kosher to trendy vegan. These small businesses are the lifeblood of the neighborhood, many with multigenerational roots.
- Commitment to Greenspace: Squirrel Hill South borders Frick Park to the southeast and boasts countless small parks and gardens. The community’s devotion to trees, walking trails, and children’s playgrounds—like those at Wightman Park and Schenley Park—reflects a deep belief in maintaining a peaceful, neighborly environment.
What Makes Squirrel Hill South Special Today
Ask any resident, and they’ll tell you: Squirrel Hill South’s magic is in its spirit. It’s the mix of students hustling to classes, families gathering in the playgrounds, elders chatting on stoops, and community events like the annual Arts Festival or Holocaust Remembrance Day. It’s the sound of music drifting from synagogue doors at sunset, the joyous hubbub of summer at the Squirrel Hill Farmers’ Market, or just a late-night stroll through Beacon Street illuminated by porch lights.
To live in Squirrel Hill South is to inherit a story, to be part of a living tradition that honors its past while embracing the promise of tomorrow. Whether you’re tracing the footpaths of Schenley Park, browsing the stacks at Carnegie Library, or savoring a bagel on Murray Avenue, you’re connected to a community that’s resilient, inclusive, and ever-evolving.
Squirrel Hill South isn’t just a place on a map—it's a neighborhood shaped by history, strengthened by diversity, and cherished by all who have called it home.